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Horse Feeding Guidelines: What I Learned the Hard Way

Twenty years ago, I thought feeding horses was simple—throw hay in the morning, grain at night, done. Three colics and countless vet bills later, I learned it's not that straightforward.

The Foundation: It's All About the Forage

Here's what changed everything for me: horses need to eat constantly. In the wild, they graze 18-20 hours a day. Their stomachs are tiny compared to their body size, and they produce acid continuously whether there's food in there or not.

This means long periods without food literally eat holes in their stomachs. I learned this after my gelding developed ulcers from the "traditional" twice-daily feeding schedule.

The 2% Rule

A horse should eat 2-3% of their body weight daily, and most of that should be forage (hay or pasture). For a 1,000-pound horse, that's 20-30 pounds of food per day. Sounds like a lot until you realize a good flake of hay only weighs 3-5 pounds.

Hay: Your Most Important Decision

Quality Over Everything

I used to buy hay by price. Big mistake. Dusty, moldy, or nutrient-poor hay causes more problems than it's worth. Now I look for:

  • Good color (green, not yellow or brown)
  • Sweet smell (never musty)
  • Soft texture (not brittle or dusty)
  • Recent cutting date (within the year)
  • No visible mold or weeds

Timothy vs. Alfalfa: The Great Debate

Timothy hay is like oatmeal—steady energy, good for most horses. Alfalfa is like espresso—high protein, lots of calcium, can make some horses hot or hyper.

I feed straight timothy to easy keepers and performance horses getting grain. Growing horses, nursing mares, or hard keepers often do well on a timothy/alfalfa mix.

Grain: Less is Usually More

This might surprise you, but many horses don't need grain at all. A healthy horse on good pasture or quality hay often maintains weight just fine without it.

When to Add Grain

  • Hard keepers who can't maintain weight on forage alone
  • Horses in heavy work needing extra energy
  • Growing horses under 4 years old
  • Pregnant or nursing mares
  • Older horses with poor teeth

The 5-Pound Rule

Never feed more than 5 pounds of grain per meal. Their small intestines can only process so much starch at once—the rest ferments in the hindgut, potentially causing colic or laminitis.

If your horse needs 8 pounds of grain daily, split it into at least two meals, preferably three.

Feeding Schedule That Actually Works

My Current System

After trying everything, here's what keeps my horses healthy:

  • 6 AM: 1/3 of daily hay ration + morning grain (if needed)
  • 12 PM: 1/3 of daily hay ration
  • 6 PM: 1/3 of daily hay ration + evening grain (if needed)
  • Bedtime: Slow-feeder hay net for overnight

The bedtime hay net was a game-changer. Horses go 12+ hours between evening and morning feed—way too long for their stomachs.

Water: The Forgotten Essential

A horse drinks 5-10 gallons daily, more in hot weather or heavy work. I check water tanks twice daily and scrub them weekly. Dirty water can cause impaction colic—learned that one the expensive way.

In winter, I use tank heaters. Horses won't drink enough ice-cold water, leading to impaction risk.

Supplements: Marketing vs. Reality

The supplement industry loves horse owners—we'll try anything for our horses' health. But here's what actually matters:

Usually Necessary

  • Salt block or loose salt - Horses need 2-4 tablespoons daily
  • Vitamin E/Selenium - If your area is deficient (ask your vet)

Sometimes Helpful

  • Joint supplements - For older horses or those in hard work
  • Probiotics - During antibiotic treatment or stress
  • Fat supplements - For hard keepers needing calories without starch

Usually Unnecessary

  • Most vitamin supplements (good hay provides vitamins)
  • Biotin (unless your horse has chronic hoof problems)
  • Anything promising "instant" results

Special Situations

Easy Keepers (Getting Fat on Air)

These horses are metabolically efficient—great for pioneers, tough for modern owners. I use grazing muzzles during rich grass season and feed lower-quality (not poor-quality!) timothy hay. Sometimes a ration balancer provides needed vitamins without extra calories.

Hard Keepers (Eating Everything, Staying Thin)

Rule out medical issues first—teeth, parasites, ulcers. Then increase feed gradually. I add fat sources like rice bran or vegetable oil before increasing grain. Frequent small meals work better than large ones.

Senior Horses

Old horses often can't chew long-stem hay effectively. I soak hay cubes or feed senior pellets that expand when wet. They need more protein than younger horses to maintain muscle mass.

Red Flags: When to Call the Vet

  • Not finishing meals (horses are usually eager eaters)
  • Drinking much more or less than usual
  • Loose or very hard manure
  • Signs of colic: pawing, looking at sides, rolling
  • Rapid weight loss or gain
  • Not drinking after exercise

The Bottom Line

Good nutrition isn't complicated, but it is individual. What works for one horse might not work for another. Keep detailed records of what you feed and how your horse responds.

Most importantly, make changes gradually. Horse digestive systems hate sudden diet changes. Take at least 7-10 days to transition to new hay or grain.

Your horses will tell you if you're getting it right—good weight, shiny coat, plenty of energy, and normal manure. Trust your eyes more than marketing claims.